PSP Repair

PSP Repair

Broken PSP or cracked screen? No problem, come by our store at any point for a free assessment on your next repair and we’ll be happy to get you a quote same day for repair. If we don’t have your part in stock, we’ll order it and fix your PSP the same day it comes in.

• Cracked Screen: $60

• No Power: $60

• Problem reading UMD Disc: $60

PREP BEFORE OPENING YOUR PSP..

Take some time to get your workspace clean and gather all the necessary tools. The last thing that you want to happen, is to return to your work area to find that you are missing parts.

 

Parts List:

  1. You will need a small tip Phillips screwdriver.  #000
  2. Small tip flat head screwdriver.  #1,0
  3. A sharp blade
  4. Baggies to keep your screws in. (they are tiny)
  5. Isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs ( just if you find your buttons/contact need cleaning.)
  6. A soft wiping cloth, like the one that came with your PSP.
  7. A can of air. (Keeps the dust off your screen when putting it back together.)

Now that you have your parts (you might need more depending on what you need to fix) You should prep your work area.
Make sure you have a clean work area where there will be the least dust, and the least distractions. The more light the better you will find what you are looking for.

Make sure you discharge yourself from STATIC ELECTRICITY, The least you can do is touch a large metal object. (Or  not the least reliable way but still fun. sneaking up to a Family Member/Friend and give them your static.. Muhahahaha).

Also remember if the connectors are not coming off easily do not force them open or off..  this is VERY BAD!   I have seen WAY to many boards which could have been repaired easily if the user didn’t force their way in.

Here is a Preview of what you are going to be working with.

So here we go, GOOD LUCK!

 

Step 1 Removing The Face Plate.

Here is your familiar PSP, we are going to remove the 7 Case screws from the back of your PSP.  
Turn over your PSP and remove the battery, You will see your “Warranty void if removed” sticker..  Well, I think its time for it to be voided.
There are 3 different types of screws in the case screw set.
4 BLACK Type “A” screws, 2 SILVER Type “B” screws, and one Silver Type “C”
There are 2  screws under the Warranty sticker. One Type “A” and One Type “B”
The Black Type “A” screws are holding your faceplate on,  The smaller silver Type “B” screws are holding the LCD metal holder in place.
Go a head and remove all 7 case screws.
Put them in a bag or on a magnet to keep them from falling off your workspace.
Now that the screws are out  go a head and pull the face plate off.Pull up on the bottom of the faceplate. ( where screw “C” is)

 

Step 2 Removing The Button Bar.

Insert your small screwdriver tip under the lip of the left side of the button bar and slide upwards until the bar is disconnected from the metal LCD housing..NOTE: DO NOT LOOSE THE RUBBER CONTACT FOR THE THUMB STICK!!!!
Then carefully unplug the button bars flex cable. By lifting the tab upwards and sliding the cable out.

 

Step 3 Removing The LCD.

   The flex cable connectors are quite week and require extra care. so don’t force to hard or you could have a very nice looking Door Jam.
On the left side of the LCD screen there is a metal bracket lip that is holding the LCD in place. You need to unhook the left side of the LCD from this housing by sliding a small flat screwdriver in between the LCD housing and the LCD mounting bracket.
slowly popping the tabs for the LCD to come out.
Slowly pull the other side out  and then tilt the LCD  at a 90◦ bend so you have access to the flex cable connectors.
Lift up the clamps on the connectors, the brown clips are the only part that will lift up, any more pressure and you could remove the whole clip…
I recommend putting the LCD back onto of the faceplate. so that dust and other debris don’t fall onto your screen and window.
DO NOT WIPE YOUR WINDOW JUST YET,  it is very easy to scratch the inside of the faceplate, if there is excessive dust try blowing it out with your can of air, or use the very soft and clean wiping cloth, A micro fiber rag has too many ” Micro Fibers” and actually scratches the screen worse.

Step 4 Removing The LCD Brace.

There are 2 Types of screws for the Lcd Brace. A Silver Type “A” and a Silver Type “D”*Depending on your version of PSP, you might have a silver or black Type “A” screw that positions the UMD door, the only difference is color.
  Start by removing the selected screws. *Note the pink stars unscrew from behind the battery, we should have removed them earlier.
  Gently pry the brace outwards between the D-pad and the housing using your flathead driver. there are small tabs that hold them both together.
  Now that the tabs are free from the D-pad, You can press the latch to open the UMD door. This allows the UMD Latch to move through the hole on the backside of the case
Wiggle that guy free.

  

 Step 5 Removing The D-pad.

Unscrew the Silver Type “A” screw from the D-pad.
Now tilt the D-pad so you can access the release bar
carefully pry up the brown release bar and slide out the flex cable.

 

Step 6 Removing The Power Switch Board

We now have to remove the power switch,  First un hook the flex cable from the motherboard.
Place your flat head screwdriver under the PCB as show and then lightly pry upwards so it clears the latch,
Now pull it off the peg towards the top.
You will need to remove the right trigger contact by sliding it up and out.

Then peel the adhesive flex cable free from the PSP case.

 

Step 7 Removing The Power Plug *

First we need to remove the Silver Type “A” screw that is holding the Yellow Power connector down.
If you did not remove your warranty sticker all the way, the plug will be stuck to the case and will need a little extra force to remove it.
*I Usually remove the power plug after I have the mother board out, since the connector on the motherboard can break very easily.
If you need to remove the plug now make sure you remove this screw. Then lift the board up slightly since the connector will get hung up on the case.Then pull the connector straight towards you.

 

Step 8 Removing The WiFi Antenna

Now we can get the WIFI antenna out of the way. You can pick him up and gently untangle the wire from the case
  You can leave him to the side since you cant pull out the WIFI board yet.

 

Step 9 Getting Ready To Remove The Motherboard

You need to remove the Silver Type “A” screw from the motherboard.
( If you didn’t do so when removing the power plug.)
Now you need to remove all of the extra components
Unplug the Laser ( Like always lightly pull the clips to the right, working one at a time.)
Unplug the UMD motor and pull the flex cable towards you. If there seems to be not enough slack to pull the cable, you can use your flathead screwdriver to assist you in pulling.
Unplug the speakers.They can stay in if you are doing a repair.
To pull them out you can grab a hold of the wire, and pull straight up and out.

 

Step 10 Removing The Motherboard

To remove the mother board you will need to pry the bottom of the board up to get the proper angle
You will need to make sure that the motherboard has detached itself from the WiFi daughterboard.
Pull the motherboard up and towards you, since the USB connector is sticking through the case.
Now you have access to the metal housings.

 

Step 11 Removing The WiFi And Sound Daughterboard.

Remove the Silver TYPE “A” screws.Pull out the metal housing and the black plastic clip.
Lift the top of the Daughterboard to pull it out, the headphone jack is sticking through the case.
The Daughterboard is gone.

 

Step 12 Removing The UMD DOOR

Again take your flathead screwdriver and GENTLY pry the hinge to the side and out.EXCESSIVE FORCE WILL BREAK THE HINGE.
More wiggle time…
The door has dropped.
“Success, Yes”

 

Step 13 Removing The UMD Assembly

You can remove the Metal Hinge if you wish Or it can stay on until you remove the assembly
Remove the 4 Assembly screws.
Don’t press to hard when unscrewing the screws. the case can some times break a screw hole.

Pick it up and brace the screw from behind

 information was taken from here